The curious traveller in Thailand is often faced with a difficult choice: where do you draw the line between having fun and enjoying the country's myriad attractions on the one hand, and on the other, being part of the problem and contributing to the exploitation of local tribal communities and to deforestation? If endangered animals are to die out, I found myself asking whether it is ethical to watch dolphin shows, elephants standing on two feet, monkeys riding bicycles. Is it ethical to visit a jungle tribe or not? Is it moral to bring your money, customs and views and forever change the local way of life?
There is an elephant farm about thirty kilometres from Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand. The farmers have seventeen elephants, aged from two to eighty. What they offer you as a newcomer to the elephant world with no prior knowledge of Buddhist elephant spirituality is one day with an elephant. One whole day for you to help take care of your elephant.
During the day you will learn to approach the elephant (always with some food and warm words). You will learn how to inspect the elephant's faeces. You will learn to mount your elephant. You will see that he (7 year-old Pujan) has his moods, just like any other seven year-old. You will learn the very basics of the 'elephant language', such as 'didi-didi' (nice boy), 'pai' (go), howlong (get down), some of which will never have the right effect from your mouth, but Pujan seems to obey every expressional order of his trainer Tanah.
You will no longer feel your thighs and groin after the two-hour ride up and down the jungle trail on the way to the waterfall. You will accidently end up bathing in the water with Pujan. You will struggle with Martin's 28 year-old female elephant who would habitually stop to eat and protest every time she is rushed. You will be panic-stricken, sitting on her head (Martin behind you) and hold tight to her ears, as she starts galloping around because Pujan saw a snake and got afraid and began hooting and tooting.
By the end of the day you will come to hate Pujan.
But back in the comfort of Singapore you will miss him ever so much. You will read more about the importance of elephants for the whole eco-system. You will want the Thai king to recover, for as Pat (the owner of the farm) said, 'Nobody listens to politicians. But everyone listens to the king.' And the king wants Thai elephants to live and prosper.
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